Special: Redacted “Naggin” 20 year old Irish Whiskey - Review

May 18

This bottle has a special place in my heart. I picked this up on my travels in Ireland while celebrating our close friends getting married. I was recommended this by two separate whiskey bar owners in Dublin and Cork. I made my girlfriend walk a mile outside of Killarney to get this. Needless to say it took a while for her to let me live that down but here we are. Enjoy the review!

History of the Cooley Distillery

The Cooley Distillery, situated on the Cooley Peninsula in County Louth, Ireland, represents a pivotal chapter in the modern revival of Irish whiskey. Founded in 1987 by Dr. John Teeling, Cooley was the first new independent Irish distillery to open in over a century, breaking a long-standing monopoly and injecting fresh energy into the industry(2)(6)(8). Teeling’s vision was rooted in his academic research at Harvard, where he studied the decline of Irish whiskey. He purchased the former state-run Ceimici Teoranta industrial alcohol plant and, using old pot stills from the Comber Distillery and a mash tun from Moffat, transformed it into a whiskey distillery by 1989(1)(6)(8).

Cooley’s innovation lay in its approach to distillation. Unlike the traditional Irish method of triple distillation, Cooley adopted a double distillation process, more akin to Scottish practices, which contributed to a distinctive flavor profile(1)(6)(8). The distillery produced both grain and pot still whiskey, resurrected historic brands like Kilbeggan and Tyrconnell, and reintroduced peated Irish whiskey to the market-something unseen in Ireland for decades(1)(6)(8). Cooley’s commitment to quality was recognized in 1998 when it became the first Irish distillery to win the International Wine and Spirit Competition trophy for outstanding quality(2).

In 2011, Cooley was acquired by Beam Inc. for $95 million, and subsequently became part of Suntory Global Spirits following Beam’s acquisition by Suntory in 2014(2)(6). Today, Cooley remains a cornerstone of Irish whiskey, producing a range of acclaimed brands and continuing to influence the industry’s evolution.

History of Redacted Independent Bottlers and the Redacted Naggin 20 Year Old Irish Whiskey

Redacted Independent Bottlers is a contemporary force in Ireland’s burgeoning independent bottling scene, founded by Michael Cowman and Ronan Collins-two friends united by their passion for whiskey and a desire to bring unique, small-batch releases to market(3)(4)(5)(7). Their journey began after an inspiring trip to Speyside, Scotland, which motivated them to create a brand that celebrates both Irish whiskey heritage and creative innovation(4). Redacted is known for its transparency, adventurous cask selections, and collaborations with local artists, making each release a blend of rare whiskey and distinctive Irish art(5).

Redacted’s approach is hands-on and unconventional, focusing on sourcing exceptional casks from leading distilleries and finishing them in unique ways(3)(5). Their releases are limited, emphasizing quality and individuality over mass production(3)(5). The company’s ethos is rooted in a love for whiskey, storytelling, and a willingness to take risks in pursuit of memorable flavors and experiences(3).

A standout in their portfolio is the Redacted Naggin 20 Year Old Irish Whiskey-a single grain whiskey distilled by Cooley Distillery and aged for two decades(4)(7). This whiskey undergoes a final maturation in Italian Barolo wine casks, resulting in a complex and layered spirit bottled at cask strength (56.5% ABV) and non-chill filtered(4)(7). The “Naggin” format, a traditional Irish term for a small bottle, underscores the release’s exclusivity and collectible nature(7). The collaboration between Redacted and Cooley exemplifies the new wave of Irish whiskey bottling: transparent, innovative, and deeply rooted in both tradition and modern creativity(4)(7).

Review:

Nose: Deep dark fruit notes immediately hit me with dried leather rounding it out on the first scent. After a while, the malted barley present’s itself and brings a bit of mustiness to the mix as well. I get notes of dried strawberries and vanilla as well that pair nicely with the aged barrel spice and plum. The Barolo cask imparts the dark fruit notes and really is the star of the show for this whiskey. It is interesting to see that the ethanol is still pretty present here, even with the 20 year age statement. Overall, a very nice nose.

Palate: On the palate, this is oily and has a lovely feel to it. The notes from the barolo wine cask immediately wash over my taste buds with the classic Irish whiskey notes coming in afterwards. Vegetal, floral, and… Soapy? I’m not sure why I get a slight soapy note but I do here. The flavors are very wispy and fast. During the sip the flavors transition quickly from being jammy and full of red wine characteristics, to being a light (but full-bodied) Irish whiskey, to then rounding out to a very drying grape note on the end.

Finish: The finish is average here. It doesn’t linger (nod to the Cranberries) as much as I would like it to. It is truly fascinating how the wine casks leave you with as if you just took a sip of wine. If you move your tongue in your mouth and take a breath in, you get grapes. That’s it. I would say the flavors start to die off about 10-12 seconds after the sip and you are left with a drying effect of a very tannic red wine.

Overall: (86). This is very complex Irish whiskey from independent bottlers who truly appreciate their craft. The thing that I love most about this bottle is the fact that they take a high-powered 20 year old whiskey aged in Barolo (notably very expensive) wine casks, and put it in a bottle that is known usually for its association with cheap offerings. I love the concept of bringing a bottling to market in a smaller capacity to allow more people to try something special, without taking out a second loan on their house. I found the palate of this whiskey to be the star of the show. The finish was a bit lackluster and the nose gave a great intro into what you would get in your first sip. A special whiskey to be celebrated in 4-5 glasses before having this disappear from your shelf.

Value: 75/100; (+2 on the overall). As mentioned above, wonderful concept of taking a premium spirit and bottling it at a smaller volume to make it accessible to the masses. You get a world class Irish whiskey for 40 euro. Worth opening and sharing with a friend for an occasion or just for a conversation!

Availability: Only available in Ireland. Should you book a a flight? Work has been tough, treat yourself. Get a Beamish while you’re in Cork too. Don’t listen to people outside of Cork telling you otherwise. It’s delightful.

Citations and other links:

Brayden Bennell

Special: Redacted “Naggin” 20 year old Irish Whiskey - Review

History of the Cooley Distillery

History of Redacted Independent Bottlers and the Redacted Naggin 20 Year Old Irish Whiskey

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